Thursday, January 29, 2009

Chile Part III - Zapallar (Carmel-By-The-Sea South)

Destination: Zapallar, Chile
Actually, it may be selling it short to Zapallar to call it “Carmel-By-The-Sea South”…and we love Carmel. Imagine a similar idylic setting, without pretension. Then sprinkle in the open, affable, and genuine Chilean people. Zapallar is far removed from the foreign tourist route or the crowds of Vina del Mar which, frankly, reminded us of a commercialized Miami Beach. Zapallar was, indeed, and oasis and welcome surprise.

I had decided that it made sense to take the scenic route up from the Colchagua Valley to avoid backtracking on Ruta 5. Despite a notable lack of traffic (and some stunning scenery), we neglected to take the following into consideration...most Chilean roads do not have route numbers and road signs only point towards towns. With Stephanie's navigation, we worked our way through both backwaters and large cities (Valparaiso being the only dump which we experienced in the country). A particularly interesting experience was the family that sat their infant on the hood of our car while we were picking up lunch.
Hotel Isla Seca was a highlight in my book. We entered the lobby after the five hour drive from Santa Cruz. My Trip Advisor posting:

We pulled into Hotel Isla Seca after a long drive from the Colchagua Valley. The hotel sits directly off the coastal road and the immediate entrance was somewhat underwhelming. That is where any and all disappointment evaporated. After three weeks in Chile, we can say without hesitation that Hotel Isla Seca was our BEST HOTEL EXPERIENCE IN THE COUNTRY. I hesitate to write this review only because I would like to keep this place to ourselves...

Our room was understated and classic with the best view of any hotel that I know of in the world...imagine a balcony overlooking breakers crashing over Pacific rocks. Large plate glass windows overlook a small outdoor seating area and a green surrounding the pool. The service was impeccable. This is the real Chile...not the American tourist route...the people are friendly and dedicated to their guests. Guillermo at the front desk was a highlight for us, as was the hotel's GM, Jose.

Some of our most memorable nights involve Jose sharing a glass of wine with us at the classic little lobby bar. He was personally dedicated to his guests and is staff...overseeing some improvements to the hotel, working on check-in, and recommending great restaurants. Quite literally, we left with the feeling that we had made another friend. Excellent management and staff all around.

This isn't a luxury resort, nor is it an ultra-modern hotel. Rather, it feels like home (albeit home with the Chilean feel). Walk down the path to the walk to the beach and enjoy a Pisco at the bar at the end of the day. Give our best to Jose and be sure to book Hotel Isla Seca if you are in Zapallar. We will surely return.



The walk from the hotel to the beach was a highlight. Impeccably maintained, it meanered through bright flowers overlooking the Pacific. Breakers crashed into the point at the end of the cove and the occasional sea otter floated in the rolling aqua water. A Pacific smell was punctuated by the scent of the flowers on the walkway...hard to capture the enormity of the place in words.

The beach itself was secluded, yet easily accessible. We were stunned by how few people were there...apparently the crowds start after Christmas when the Santiagoans take the two of drive from the city. Stephanie quickly learned about the hole in the ozone layer over southern South America...skin burns quickly and high-number sunblock is a necessity.

Great Zapallar restaurants:
1. El Chringuito
2. Puntamai
3. Hotel Isla Seca Restaurant
Walking along the south side of the main beach and towards the base of the town I felt like I was in Italy. Actually, maybe a combination of Italy, La Jolla, and Maine (if that is possible to visualize). The place still is a working fishing village, with colorful wooden fishing boats dotting the calmest points of anchorage. Walk from the main beach to the phenomenal El Chiringito restaurant for incredible seafood and a cool atmosphere. The place was recommended to us by locals and several of our Chilean friends.

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